2024 Kaesler, 'Old Vine' Semillon, Barossa Valley, South Australia

This is another storming Kaesler wine, and it’s unlike any other. Australia is spoilt for choice with dry, keen, energetic, old-vine Semillon; almost all of it is untroubled by oak. This means the wines bear no resemblance to those from Bordeaux, or anywhere else for that matter and within the country, the pendulum of style swings all over the place, too. Skinnier than any Sauvignon Blanc, this balletic wine possesses a malevolent edge, manifesting itself in the brightest and raspiest pith and zest notes, underpinned by nerve-jangling acidity. It is ever so slightly masochistic, and this flavour stance means it can take on a plateau de fruits de mer with more alacrity than any swaggering Loire white while spearing a mountain of sushi faster than a Sake master in full flow. Line up your finest seafood and let OVS get to work! -Matthew Jukes