2023 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru `Champ Gain` - Liberty

Domaine Etienne Sauzet is arguably one of Puligny Montrachet’s finest estates. Established in the 1920s, the domaine is run by the fourth generation of the Sauzet family, Emilie (the great-great-granddaughter of Etienne) and her winemaker husband Benoît Riffault, a native of Sancerre. Together they own 10 hectares in Puligny-Montrachet and have recently acquired five hectares in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune around the villages of Orches and Nolay, just beyond Saint-Romain and Saint-Aubin. Domaine Etienne Sauzet also purchases grapes from other family members and trusted growers. The estate has been practising biodynamic viticulture since 2009 and has recently reduced their use of new oak to allow the elegance of their fruit to shine through.

Benoît’s immaculate winemaking approach is evident in the wines of Domaine Etienne Sauzet, which are all defined by minerality, precision and exceptional length. The Aligoté is fermented and aged for 18 months in amphora-esque ‘grès’ sandstone vats and demonstrates why this historically overlooked variety deserves attention. The Bourgogne ‘La Tuféra’ punches well above its classification and is sourced from four parcels in Puligny-Montrachet with an average vine age of 50 years old. The resulting wine displays bright fruit intensity, aromas of white flowers and lovely acidity. The fruit for the Hautes Côtes de Beaune ‘Jardin du Calvaire’, a wine exclusive to Liberty Wines, comes from a vineyard planted at an elevation of 450 metres at the end of a steep path called ‘la route du Calvaire’ (‘the Calvary route’, an indication of its steepness). The resulting wine is defined by an elegant and refined style, with great tension and length on the palate.

The Etienne Sauzet Pulignys are a masterclass in elegance and complexity, all demonstrating the signature lemony aromatics, marked minerality and linear acidity of this famed village. Volumes are limited – please speak to your account manager regarding allocations.

Premier Cru ‘Champ Gain’ comes from two parcels of vines, just under Garenne, next to Truffière. The soils here are less stony but allow for deeper rooting. The Domaine practices sustainable viticulture. All vineyard work, such as debudding to control yield and opening up the canopy, is done by hand, as is harvesting. Vines are Guyot trained.

The 2023 vintage in Burgundy was plentiful, with yields some of the largest in the last seven years. The two key challenges were: keeping yields in check, which was achieved by vigorous green harvesting; and preserving acidity during an intense harvest – condensed into a shorter picking window for the whites, due to heat spikes at the end of August. The growing season began with a warm and dry winter, followed by a relatively rainy March. Budbreak was slightly delayed until early April which meant the Côte d’Or escaped frost. The spring months were sunny but relatively cool, providing perfect conditions for even flowering. This, together with sunny conditions and regular showers during the summer, meant that the vines flourished. Temperatures were cooler than usual in July and early August, and the grapes underwent a perfectly paced slow ripening. A spike in temperatures at the end of August accelerated the ripening and harvest began in early September.

Grapes were hand harvested and sorted in the vineyard and at the winery if required. Whole bunches were pressed in a pneumatic press for two hours, pressing gently to retain aromatics and delicate fruit aromas and flavours. Fermentation took place in old barrels and lasted approximately one month. The wine was aged in 15% new oak for 12-15 months, while the remaining 85% was aged in older oak aged between two and three years. Using a small proportion of new oak allowed the elegance of the fruit to come through while adding a delicate complexity. The wine was aged for a further three months in stainless-steel tanks after racking off the fine lees.

This wine is elegant, poised and showcases perfectly Benoit Riffault's winemaking talent. Refined and powerful at the same time, it has fantastic flavours citrus fruit, sweet pastries and subtle smoky notes of the finish.