2023 Etienne Sauzet, Bourgogne Aligoté - Liberty

Domaine Etienne Sauzet is arguably one of Puligny Montrachet’s finest estates. Established in the 1920s, the domaine is run by the fourth generation of the Sauzet family, Emilie (the great-great-granddaughter of Etienne) and her winemaker husband Benoît Riffault, a native of Sancerre. Together they own 10 hectares in Puligny-Montrachet and have recently acquired five hectares in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune around the villages of Orches and Nolay, just beyond Saint-Romain and Saint-Aubin. Domaine Etienne Sauzet also purchases grapes from other family members and trusted growers. The estate has been practising biodynamic viticulture since 2009 and has recently reduced their use of new oak to allow the elegance of their fruit to shine through.

Benoît’s immaculate winemaking approach is evident in the wines of Domaine Etienne Sauzet, which are all defined by minerality, precision and exceptional length. The Aligoté is fermented and aged for 18 months in amphora-esque ‘grès’ sandstone vats and demonstrates why this historically overlooked variety deserves attention. The Bourgogne ‘La Tuféra’ punches well above its classification and is sourced from four parcels in Puligny-Montrachet with an average vine age of 50 years old. The resulting wine displays bright fruit intensity, aromas of white flowers and lovely acidity. The fruit for the Hautes Côtes de Beaune ‘Jardin du Calvaire’, a wine exclusive to Liberty Wines, comes from a vineyard planted at an elevation of 450 metres at the end of a steep path called ‘la route du Calvaire’ (‘the Calvary route’, an indication of its steepness). The resulting wine is defined by an elegant and refined style, with great tension and length on the palate.

The Etienne Sauzet Pulignys are a masterclass in elegance and complexity, all demonstrating the signature lemony aromatics, marked minerality and linear acidity of this famed village. Volumes are limited – please speak to your account manager regarding allocations.

Emilie and Benoît Sauzet source the grapes for their Bourgogne Aligoté from a grower friend of theirs in the Hautes Côtes, in the area around Orches to the West of Meursault. The vines are farmed following organic and sustainable practices. The grapes are hand harvested when perfectly ripe, something which is crucial for Aligoté which can be overly lean if picked too early.

In 2023, the winter was milder than average. However, the alternation of warmer and colder days caused a slight delay in the start of the vegetative cycle, which spanned the first two weeks of April. With excellent climatic conditions at the beginning of May, the vine grew at a steady pace. Flowering took place at the beginning of June, predicting a harvest in early September. The grape output was generous, and the harvest volume was promising. July was very unstable, and two hail episodes in mid-July caused some very localized damage. The ripening took place in very hot and sunny weather. The grapes reached maturity from the beginning of September and the harvest ended at the end of the month. Careful sorting in the vineyard and in the winery was often necessary to bring in the grapes in the best condition. Overall, 2023 was a plentiful vintage of excellent quality, with great maturity and powerful and balanced aromatics.

Upon arrival at the winery in Puligny, the Aligoté grapes were gently pressed and then fermented in amphora-esque “grès” sandstone vats. Following fermentation the wine remained in these vats and was aged on lees with no racking. After the final blend was assembled, the wine lightly filtered and then bottled.

Pale lemon in colour. Aromas of stone fruit, citrus and blossom burst out of the glass. On the palate, a zesty acidity balances the ripe fruit flavours and carries them onto the crisp and clean finish.