2022 Poderi Aldo Conterno, `Bussiador` Langhe Chardonnay - Liberty

Poderi Aldo Conterno is one of the most respected names in Italian wine, with their namesake founder described by Jancis Robinson as “one of Barolo's most emblematic characters”. Particularly famed for their single-vineyard Barolos, the wines of Poderi Aldo Conterno are widely regarded to be among the finest examples of Nebbiolo made today. Over the years, production has been deliberately reduced to increase quality. From the same 25 hectares of 60-year-old vines in Piemonte, the Conterno family now produce 80,000 bottles rather than the 180,000 made in 1998. This intensity shines through in the wines, which are defined by their signature elegance.

The Conterno family has made wine in Monforte d’Alba since at least the 1700s. Aldo’s grandfather, Giovanni Conterno, founded his own winery in 1908, later run by his son Giacomo. After a stint in the USA during the 1950s, Aldo worked with his older brother Giovanni in the family winery before deciding to strike out on his own in 1969. Aldo’s three sons now run Poderi Aldo Conterno, with Stefano making the wines while Franco and Giacomo manage the business.

The Chardonnay ‘Bussiador’ is perfectly balanced and elegant, with texture and acidity underpinning the refined and intense character of the wine. The Barbera ‘Conca Tre Pile’ is elegant yet rich with a classic Barbera zip on the finish. The grapes for Langhe Nebbiolo ‘Il Favot’ hail from vineyards no more than 20 years old. The wine has a fresh, lively fruit character with elegant, lifted aromas. The ‘Bussia’ is a blend of younger vines (25 - 30 years old) hailing from Conterno's three plots: Cicala, Romirasco and Colonnello. The wine has a fine nose which shows floral and herbaceous notes with subtle red fruits. The elegance of the ‘Colonnello’, scented with a silky texture and lovely mineral finish, contrasts with the more structured ‘Cicala’, which stands out with a length and grainy tannin structure that few wines can match. The ‘Romirasco’ is perfumed, intense, ripe and mineral with great length and superb tannins. The Romirasco vineyard, planted on the highest point of the hill of Bussia, provides 70% of the Barolo ‘Granbussia’ fruit, giving the wine aromatic intensity, length and balance.

The Poderi Aldo Conterno estate covers 25 hectares of vineyard, primarily on the hill of Bussia in Monforte d'Alba, in the heart of Barolo. The vineyards are situated at 350 to 400 metres above sea level, on soils consisting of calcareous marl and layers of sand. The Chardonnay is grown on an area of about three hectares.

The 2022 vintage was defined by exceptional warmth and prolonged drought from an unusually mild winter through summer. Scarce rainfall and above-average temperatures from late May accelerated the growing cycle, with flowering occurring ten days earlier than usual and harvest beginning in late August—one of the earliest on record. The vines adapted remarkably to water stress, producing smaller berries and concentrated fruit with no disease pressure. Harvest was completed by early October, yielding structured wines with significant ageing potential.