Domenico Clerico’s impact on Langhe winemaking has been significant and his legacy remarkable. Together with a small group of other producers, Domenico was part of the renaissance of Barolo and the Langhe during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He took these areas from relative obscurity to what they are today: a unique territory consistently producing some of the world’s best wines.
Along with hard work and the desire to experiment, Domenico understood early on that the best viticulture was the key to excellence. He quickly recognised the value and potential of his vineyards, explaining, “My objective as a winegrower is to highlight the potential of our territory. Every vineyard here (in Barolo) has its own character and I want to express it in my wines”.
As is often the case in Barolo, the Clerico family owned a farm with five hectares of vineyards and sold their grapes to local cooperatives. When Domenico and his wife Giuliana picked up the family business in 1976, he started to vinify and bottle the family grapes, taking inspiration from France with a strict focus on the vineyards and vinification techniques in the winery. In 1977 he purchased a small plot of land in the heart of Bussia, then expanded in Monforte d’Alba with the acquisition of a plot in the Ginestra vineyard in 1981, Pajana in 1990 and Mosconi in 1995. In 2006 he started farming a vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba from which he produced the Aeroplanservaj. Today, the company owns a total of 21 hectares of vineyards.
Domenico was not afraid to experiment in the cellar in pursuit of progress, and throughout his life, he made many changes in his winemaking. Eventually, he settled for less prominent oak use and 20 - 25-day macerations, which helped capture the unique qualities of the different vineyards. Following Domenico’s premature death in 2017 the estate is now owned by his wife Giuliana, who runs it with the support of winemaker and general manager Oscar Arrivabene.
The Visadi Langhe Dolcetto, fermented in stainless steel, is fresh and crisp with aromas of bright red fruits. The Trevigne Barbera d’Alba combines acidity, fruit and body with aromas of dark fruits and peppery notes. “Capisme-e” is a pure expression of Nebbiolo aged only in stainless steel and coming from a single vineyard in Monforte d'Alba in MgA Bricco San Pietro. The grapes for the Barolo di Monforte are sourced from the plots in Ginestra, Mosconi and Bussia. The wine delivers exceptional fruity, spicy and floral aromas with sweet, silky tannins that lead to a rich, persistent finish.
The Pajana and Ciabot Mentin are two expressions of Ginestra, a ridge from just outside Monforte which descends into the valley separating Monforte from Serralunga. The Briccotto comes from a vineyard which is part of the MgA Bussia (Bussia Soprana), just below Aldo Conterno’s Cicala and is slightly lighter in colour, more open and elegant but less powerful than Ginestra wines. Aeroplanservaj (wild aeroplane) hails from a plot in Serralunga d’Alba and, like the Barolo Monforte, Pajana and Ciabot Mentin, it ages for at least 18 months in a combination of French oak barriques and Slavonian oak casks. The nose offers elegant floral notes of roses and violets. Domenico could not choose between the artwork options for his `Aeroplanservaj`, so he decided to use them all. As a result, each case includes all six variations, with a different front label on each bottle.
Pajana’ is a cru within the Ginestra vineyard. The name comes from the ancient pass that connected Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga at the top of the hill. The first Nebbiolo vines were planted in 1971, with the first vintage being produced in 1990. The vineyard sits between 330 and 340 metres above sea level and faces east/south-east, on soils comprising of sand and clay loam along with 11- to 12-million-year-old Lequio-Serravalliano formations.
The 2021 vintage began with a mild yet rainy winter, including some snowfall, ensuring an excellent water supply for the growing season ahead. A long period of stable weather extended throughout spring and summer, with moderate temperatures—an ideal year for canopy management. Two key rainfalls marked the vintage: one at the end of August and another in mid-September, both of which created the perfect conditions for optimal ripening. A notable feature of this vintage was the strong temperature variation from mid-September onward, which led to a significant accumulation of polyphenols, contributing to the richness and deep colour intensity of the 2021 wines.
The grapes were picked by hand into small crates to prevent damage to the berries and immediately brought to the cellar. Grapes were then carefully selected on a sorting table and destemmed using dry ice to prevent oxidation. 90% destemmed grapes and 10% whole clusters were added directly into the tank. Fermentation with natural yeasts began after about 3-5 days. Gentle pump-overs took place once a day for selective tannin extraction. The total maceration time was 20 days. Malolactic fermentation was completed before the end of winter in stainless steel tanks. 90% of the wine was aged in a 40 hl Slavonian oak and the remaining 10% was aged in barriques before being bottled without any fining or filtration.
`Pajana` is red ruby in colour. The nose is elegant with notes of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, tobacco and violet. The palate is well-balanced and intense with refined tannins and a long fruity finish.
