2021 Domaine de Montille, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru - Liberty

Founded in the mid-18th century, Domaine de Montille is one of the Côte d’Or’s most historic, family-operated estates and an early advocate of domaine-bottling. It is currently run by ninth-generation winemaker Etienne de Montille, who, alongside his father Hubert, has ensured the domaine’s reputation for quality endures today.

Prior to Hubert de Montille’s 50-year tenure, the family sold their vineyards in Musigny, Bonnes Mares and Chambolle-Musigny, shrinking Domaine de Montille from 12 to just 2.5 hectares. Hubert focused on restoring these vineyard holdings, a practice Etienne has since continued. As a result, the domaine now owns 37 hectares of vines across 35 appellations in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. These include some remarkable sites, such as Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru `Le Cailleret`, which sits next to ‘Le Montrachet’ Grand Cru, and Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru `Aux Malconsorts’, next to Domaine de la Romani-Conti’s Grand Cru ‘La Tâche’. Etienne was an early advocate of organic farming which he introduced to the domaine’s vineyards in 1995. Biodynamic practices followed in 2005, and the domaine received ‘Ecocert Bio’ certification in 2012.

Before taking over the domaine, Etienne studied oenology and worked as Hubert’s apprentice. Today, he works closely with American-born chef de cave Brian Sieve, who has been with the domaine for over a decade. Together they make wines that are aromatic, supple, and approachable in their youth, yet still offer the impressive capacity for ageing for which Hubert was renowned.

There is no set winemaking recipe at Domaine de Montille. Instead, Etienne and Brian respond to the nuanced characteristics of each vintage. In the red wines, this usually translates to whole-bunch fermentation, ranging from 50% to 100%, though destemming is used when deemed preferable. Macerations last 12 – 16 days, with twice-daily punch downs and judicious use of new French oak, usually 30% or less. In the best vintages, up to 50% new oak is used for the top cuvées.

For the white wines, grapes tend to be picked early to preserve freshness. Ageing takes place in a mix of 228 and 600-litre oak barrels (with little to no bâtonnage) to add texture and complexity. As with the reds, new oak is used sparingly and usually comprises no more than 20 – 25% of the blend. The wines are aged on lees in barrels for 11 – 12 months, before ageing in tank for five to six months before bottling.

Though widely acclaimed for their 1er and Grand Cru wines, Domaine de Montille also produces remarkable Bourgogne Blanc and Rouge. Their Bourgogne Blanc is made by blending younger vines (10 to 20 years old) from their Puligny-Montrachet village sites and ‘Clos du Château de Puligny-Montrachet’. Fermented and then aged for 11 months in a combination of 228-litre and 600-litre French oak barrels, 20% new, this wine perfectly marries a crisp lemon fruit character with a lovely toastiness. The Bourgogne Rouge blends fruit from a Volnay parcel and rare Pinot Noir plots located in Puligny. 33% whole bunch in the ferment produces a delightfully elegant wine with crunchy red fruit character and velvety tannins.

Clos-Vougeot was founded around 1150 by Cistercien monks, it covers a block of 50 hectares of vines and stands out for its location, history and great wines. Today approximately 80 owners share this prestigious vineyard. De Montille's 0.29 hectares parcel is on the top portion of the section called "Dix Journaux" (dividing the Clos into thirds) and benefits from a good altitude. The wine is elegant rather than powerful. This finesse is given by the force of the terroir of the upper part of Clos-Vougeot. The Domaine has practised organic viticulture since 1995 and was certified organic in 2012. Since 2005 it has also converted to biodynamic viticulture.

The 2021 vintage began with significant adversity when severe spring frosts struck the region between April 6th and 8th, with temperatures plummeting to -8°C and causing irreparable damage to potential harvest volumes. Vine development resumed cautiously following the frost event, with the relatively cool and wet conditions throughout July and early August maintaining delayed growth patterns throughout the summer months. The challenging season required double the usual treatments to combat persistent mildew pressure, demanding exceptional effort from the vineyard team. Harvest volumes ultimately declined by an average of 60%, with considerable variation across blocks. Chardonnay vines suffered disproportionately higher frost damage due to their advanced vegetative stage compared to Pinot Noir at the time of the frost events. Despite the volume losses, the resulting musts demonstrated exceptional acidity and outstanding freshness that exceeded all expectations.

Grapes were hand picked and selected both in the vineyard and at the cellar. The wine was vinified using 33% of whole bunch. Ageing took place in barrel (40% of new oak) for 8 months and then the wine was assembled and moved into stainless steel. Sulfur were added at bottling and not during vinification. The philosophy is to produce wines with great aromatic, purity, balance, and elegance rather than with power and extraction. The Domaine's current style remains faithful to Hubert's natural and idealistic approach.

On the nose, the wine shows stunning bouquet of rose petals, sour cherry and dark chocolate. On the palate, the profile is rather light and airy, which comes as a surprise coming from Clos Vougeot, with silky tannins and a bright finish.