2021 Clos de Luz, Massal 1945, Cabernet Sauvignon, Almahue, Chile

Tasting note

Fresh black cherry and dark plums on the nose with a hint of sweet spice. Lovely balance of generosity and freshness to the fruit, backed with ripe fine tanins.

Our thoughts

A small family winery in Almahue Valley, Clos de Luz is run by Gabriel Edwards. The estate was bought by his great-grandfather in 1892, planted by his grandmother in 1945, and now spreads over 33 hectares of vineyards. The 80-year old, ungrafted vines are massal selection, rather than clonal, preserving natural diversity and complex, varied character in the final wines. Viticulture too remains highly traditional, with the vineyards ploughed by horses (the twisted trunks of the old vines make it impossible to use a tractor) while organic cover crops help de-compact and integrate into the soils. The goal is to create balanced, elegant wines, and in the case of this early-harvested Cabernet, there is a certain St-Estèphe-like character to the crème de cassis, graphite-toned fruit, with wine director Peter Mitchell MW labelling it ‘one of the best-value Cabs we list’.