2021 Bodega Colomé `Altura Máxima`, Salta Pinot Noir - Liberty

Established in 1831, Bodega Colomé is the oldest working winery in Argentina and home to one of the world's highest commercial vineyards, ‘Altura Máxima’, planted at a staggering 3,111 metres above sea level. The combination of Bodega Colomé’s history, vineyard sites and winemaking talent means they have been consistently classified as a 'First Growth' winery by Tim Atkin MW, in his Annual Argentina Report, since 2020.

Bodega Colomé is based in the northern Argentinian wine region of Upper Calchaquí Valley. The estate is thought to have been founded by the Spanish Governor of Salta, Nicolás Severo de Isasmendi y Echalar, whose daughter brought the first pre-phylloxera Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon vines to Bodega Colomé in 1854. These vineyards are still farmed by the Bodega today, which has since grown to become one of Argentina’s most respected wineries.

Bodega Colomé’s modern reputation began to take shape in 2001 when they were purchased by Swiss entrepreneur Donald Hess (of Hess Collection, Napa Valley fame). Hess not only invested in the vineyards and winery but also into the Colomé village, converting it from a forgotten backwater into a thriving community with multiple schools, a community centre and even an art museum. Many of the now 400-strong villagers are also employed at Bodega Colomé, evidencing the winery's commitment to social sustainability and maintaining the local economy they helped build.

This approach to sustainability also translates to the environment, with Bodega Colomé having 140 hectares of vineyards planted at elevations between 1,700 and 3,111 metres above sea level. These include the three key estate vineyards: ‘La Brava’ (1,750 metres) in Cafayate, ‘Finca Colomé’ (2,300 metres) which surrounds the winery in Molinos and ‘Altura Máxima’ (3,111 metres), in the Payogasta area. Grapes grown at such high elevations, with minimal crop coverage, develop naturally thick skins as protection from the sun’s intense ultraviolet rays. These significant elevations also create a diurnal range of more than 20°C between day and night. This is crucial for achieving quality and balance, with the warmer daylight hours ensuring successful ripening and the dramatically cooler nights preserving acidity and fragrance.

Combining these factors further contributes to lengthening the growing season, resulting in wines with supple, complex tannins, rich colour and a deep, nuanced flavour profile. French winemaker Thibaut Delmotte has been the custodian of Bodega Colomé since 2005, taking the Bodega from being a very good producer to the outstanding Argentinian ‘First Growth’ we know today, through his meticulous, low-intervention philosophy.

Altura Máxima

At a staggering 3,111 metres above sea level, ‘Altura Máxima’ is one of the world’s highest vineyards and represents viticulture at its most extreme. Despite Hess being labelled “loco” (mad) by many for even contemplating such a feat, he acquired the land and planted there in 2004. The extreme conditions proved too challenging in the early years, but fortune favoured the brave and in 2012 they released their first ‘Altura Máxima’ Malbec. A powerfully aromatic and intense wine, aged in neutral French oak for 24 months prior to bottling, Tim Atkin MW describes it as “one of the great wines of the world”. The ‘Altura Máxima’ Pinot Noir, sourced from three different plots in the vineyard, is made with one-third whole bunch fermentation and spends 12 months ageing in 225 litre French oak barrels, a quarter of which are new. It has aromas of raspberry and cherry with hints of spice, wildflowers and herbs with fine tannins and refreshing acidity.

Despite Hess being labelled “loco” (mad) by many for even contemplating such a feat, he acquired the land and planted the Altura Máxima vineyards in 2004. The team created a dirt track through the wild and remote scrubland to reach the previously inaccessible vineyard. The extreme conditions proved too challenging in the early years, but fortune favoured the brave, and in 2012 they proved that the impossible was possible and released their first wine from this vineyard. The ‘Altura Máxima’ Pinot Noir is sourced from three different plots in the vineyard.

Calchaquí Valley experienced excellent conditions in 2021. The total rainfall was a little lower than usual, 120mm. The growing season was balanced without any threat from frost or disease. During ripening there was little rain so botrytis could not develop. The cloudy days ensured the grapes were not sun burnt and retained their freshness.

The grapes were hand harvested before further sorting at the winery. A third of the fruit was left as whole bunch and the rest destemmed. After four days of cold maceration, fermentation took place with indigenous yeasts, with two gentle punch downs a day. The wine was then aged for 12 months in 225 litre French oak barrels, a quarter of which were new.

Intense bright ruby in colour. Perfumed with aromas of blackcurrant and raspberry, complemented by floral and spicy notes. On the palate, it is herbal, complex and concentrated with fresh acidity and good tannic structure.