Poderi Aldo Conterno is one of the most respected names in Italian wine, with their namesake founder described by Jancis Robinson as “one of Barolo's most emblematic characters”. Particularly famed for their single-vineyard Barolos, the wines of Poderi Aldo Conterno are widely regarded to be among the finest examples of Nebbiolo made today. Over the years, production has been deliberately reduced to increase quality. From the same 25 hectares of 60-year-old vines in Piemonte, the Conterno family now produce 80,000 bottles rather than the 180,000 made in 1998. This intensity shines through in the wines, which are defined by their signature elegance.
The Conterno family has made wine in Monforte d’Alba since at least the 1700s. Aldo’s grandfather, Giovanni Conterno, founded his own winery in 1908, later run by his son Giacomo. After a stint in the USA during the 1950s, Aldo worked with his older brother Giovanni in the family winery before deciding to strike out on his own in 1969. Aldo’s three sons now run Poderi Aldo Conterno, with Stefano making the wines while Franco and Giacomo manage the business.
The Chardonnay ‘Bussiador’ is perfectly balanced and elegant, with texture and acidity underpinning the refined and intense character of the wine. The Barbera ‘Conca Tre Pile’ is elegant yet rich with a classic Barbera zip on the finish. The grapes for Langhe Nebbiolo ‘Il Favot’ hail from vineyards no more than 20 years old. The wine has a fresh, lively fruit character with elegant, lifted aromas. The ‘Bussia’ is a blend of younger vines (25 - 30 years old) hailing from Conterno's three plots: Cicala, Romirasco and Colonnello. The wine has a fine nose which shows floral and herbaceous notes with subtle red fruits. The elegance of the ‘Colonnello’, scented with a silky texture and lovely mineral finish, contrasts with the more structured ‘Cicala’, which stands out with a length and grainy tannin structure that few wines can match. The ‘Romirasco’ is perfumed, intense, ripe and mineral with great length and superb tannins. The Romirasco vineyard, planted on the highest point of the hill of Bussia, provides 70% of the Barolo ‘Granbussia’ fruit, giving the wine aromatic intensity, length and balance.
The grapes for the Barolo Bussia come from Conterno's three plots within the Bussia vineyard, in Monforte: Cicala, Romirasco and Colonnello. Conterno's plots in this vineyard, which is one of the biggest ones of Barolo, enjoy a favourable south and south-west exposure that provide long hours of sunlight in the afternoon. This helps the Nebbiolo grapes to reach full ripeness at the end of the growing season. The soils are mainly clay and calcareous, rich in sodium-carbonate and iron. The Nebbiolo vines are Michet and Lampia clones.
The 2020 vintage began with a mild winter and low levels of rain and snowfall. The beginning of spring was sunny and dry, encouraging the development of buds. The dry weather continued until May, when there was considerable rainfall until June. While this prevented water stress, it required careful vineyard management to reduce disease. Fortunately, there were no other extreme weather events. Nebbiolo grapes were at optimal sugar levels towards the end of September and beginning of October, which was when the grapes were harvested.
Grapes were hand harvested and selected in the vineyard. Once arrived at the winery, they were fermented on the skins in stainless-steel vats for 20-30 days, with temperatures peaking at 32°C. The wine was decanted several times before being transferred to Slavonian oak casks where it was aged for 28 months.
Deep red in colour with a purple sheen, Bussia has a fine nose which shows floral and herbaceous notes with subtle red fruits. With its supple tannins, great depth, lovely intensity of flavour and a touch of minerality, this Barolo is a classic example of the Nebbiolo grape at its best.
