Jochen Dreissigacker farms 45 hectares of certified organic vineyards in the Rheinhessen, over half of which are planted with Riesling. Jochen describes organic winemaking as “the artisan path to purity” and has also implemented biodynamic principles to create optimal conditions for his grapes to thrive. Focussing on improving vineyard practices is, as Jochen explains, “a long-term investment in nature and wines”. This extends further to reducing yields in the vineyard by creating healthier soils that reduce vine vigour. “The path to any truly great wine is to limit the number of grapes that are allowed to ripen,” says Jochen.
As expected from an organic estate, Jochen’s approach in the cellar is as natural as possible, using only indigenous yeast fermentations and minimal intervention. All his wines, except for the Auslese, are fermented fully dry. The optimal position of his vineyards, low yields and Jochen’s determination to pick at optimum ripeness ensure full flavour and eliminate any need for residual sugar to balance unripe flavours.
The ‘Organic’ Riesling is ripe, clean, scented and zesty, offering outstanding value. The ‘Bechtheimer’ Riesling, sourced from a selection of Jochen’s vineyards in the village of Bechtheim, is fuller, richer and more complex, but similarly bone dry with fantastic ageing potential. The ‘Wunderwerk’ Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is aged for three years in small oak barrels, one-third of which are new. It is scented, supple and lively, offering a wonderfully pure Pinot Noir from this outstanding producer.
The Auslese Riesling offers a soundly aromatic sweet wine with hints of luscious honey made with specially selected, extra-ripe grapes from the vineyards in Bechtheim. A blend of loess and limestone soils creates delicate floral aromas, while sharp acidity complements the fine sweetness of this Riesling, resulting in a harmonious, lively Auslese with a low ABV.
Jochen’s latest project, ‘Vintages’, reinforces his reputation for innovation. Inspired by the meticulous work of the cellar masters in Champagne, Jochen is determined to show that still wines can gain depth and complexity from the skilful art of blending different, but complementary, vintages. The vintages in each wine are fermented separately before blending and ageing in barriques for three years. Blending St. Laurent and Spätburgunder, the ‘Vintages’ red is fragrant and juicy with a silky palate and lengthy finish. The ‘Vintages’ Riesling brings together the elegance and minerality from up to five vintages, resulting in a pure, dry expression.
The fruit for the ‘Bechtheimer’ Riesling is sourced exclusively from a selection of Jochen’s top vineyards within the village of Bechtheim. His best sites include Hasensprung, Geyersberg and Rosengarten. These vineyards see plenty of sunshine all year round, resulting in richer wines, full of character. Soil is made up of loess and marl. Jochen's approach in the vineyard is simple: to intervene as little as possible. Low yields and careful selection ensures excellent fruit.
Frost in spring 2019 made the start of the growing cycle difficult. Weather conditions during the summer were also challenging: high temperatures, drought and the threat of sunburn meant careful vineyard management was essential. Despite the difficult conditions, 2019 produced incredibly good wines.
The grapes were harvested by hand and macerated for 48 hours. The juice was fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks for five weeks at temperatures of 16-18°C to retain the purest expression of variety and vineyard. The wine was then matured in 85% stainless steel tanks and 15% oak barrels for additional textural complexity.
Pale yellow in colour with golden reflections. This dry Riesling opens with aromas of apricot and nectarine, followed by wild herbs and citrus fruit. The palate is expressive, with a touch of smoke, good concentration and mineral notes on the long, refreshing finish.
