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Wine Tasting Adventure

2018 Dreissigacker, `Wunderwerk` Rheinhessen Spätburgunder - Liberty

£58.99 GBP
£58.99 GBP

Jochen Dreissigacker farms 45 hectares of certified organic vineyards in the Rheinhessen, over half of which are planted with Riesling. Jochen describes organic winemaking as “the artisan path to purity” and has also implemented biodynamic principles to create optimal conditions for his grapes to thrive. Focussing on improving vineyard practices is, as Jochen explains, “a long-term investment in nature and wines”. This extends further to reducing yields in the vineyard by creating healthier soils that reduce vine vigour. “The path to any truly great wine is to limit the number of grapes that are allowed to ripen,” says Jochen.

As expected from an organic estate, Jochen’s approach in the cellar is as natural as possible, using only indigenous yeast fermentations and minimal intervention. All his wines, except for the Auslese, are fermented fully dry. The optimal position of his vineyards, low yields and Jochen’s determination to pick at optimum ripeness ensure full flavour and eliminate any need for residual sugar to balance unripe flavours.

The ‘Organic’ Riesling is ripe, clean, scented and zesty, offering outstanding value. The ‘Bechtheimer’ Riesling, sourced from a selection of Jochen’s vineyards in the village of Bechtheim, is fuller, richer and more complex, but similarly bone dry with fantastic ageing potential. The ‘Wunderwerk’ Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) is aged for three years in small oak barrels, one-third of which are new. It is scented, supple and lively, offering a wonderfully pure Pinot Noir from this outstanding producer.

The Auslese Riesling offers a soundly aromatic sweet wine with hints of luscious honey made with specially selected, extra-ripe grapes from the vineyards in Bechtheim. A blend of loess and limestone soils creates delicate floral aromas, while sharp acidity complements the fine sweetness of this Riesling, resulting in a harmonious, lively Auslese with a low ABV.

Jochen’s latest project, ‘Vintages’, reinforces his reputation for innovation. Inspired by the meticulous work of the cellar masters in Champagne, Jochen is determined to show that still wines can gain depth and complexity from the skilful art of blending different, but complementary, vintages. The vintages in each wine are fermented separately before blending and ageing in barriques for three years. Blending St. Laurent and Spätburgunder, the ‘Vintages’ red is fragrant and juicy with a silky palate and lengthy finish. The ‘Vintages’ Riesling brings together the elegance and minerality from up to five vintages, resulting in a pure, dry expression.

The vines are located in Rheinhessen, a hilly region with loess-based soils. Jochen's approach in the winery is simple: to intervene as little as possible. Low yields and careful selection in the vineyard ensures excellent fruit and therefore wine. Wunderwerk translated means 'wonder piece'. Jochen named this wine Wunderwerk because the complexity achieved from relatively young vines (five-ten years old) is a wonder as he usually expects this level of complexity from his older vines.

The 2018 vintage was characterised by frosts in April and hailstorms, especially in the Alzey-Worms district, which contributed to a 20% lower harvest than the long-term average. Climactic conditions were fortuitous in the region, bringing heavy rain just before the extremely early harvest, along with mild weather and cold nights that helped grapes reach a good level of ripeness and develop great aromas.

The grapes were hand harvested and carefully destemmed. Fermentation took place in large oak barrels for 3 weeks, during which the cap was regularly submerged to ensure continuous contact between juice and skins, building structure, depth, and expressive aromatics. After fermentation, the was transferred into French and Austrian barrels (1/3 new, 2/3 used), for 2 years on its fine lees. The extended lees contact developed fine spice, complexity, and structural depth while allowing the wine to be worked with minimal sulphur dioxide, in line with Jochen’s organic ethos. After maturation, the wine underwent a final racking and was bottled unfiltered, resulting in a Pinot Noir of balance, depth, and character that vividly expressed the nature of the vintage.

Ruby red in colour, this Pinot Noir is perfumed and elegant on the nose, with aromas of red berries, cedar and cinnamon. The palate is well-balanced with fine, velvety tannins and juicy acidity.